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OXIDATIVE WINES VINS OXIDATIUS

RANCI DOLÇ: ELABORATION

RANCI DOLÇ: ELABORATION

How do we produce our Ranci Dolç?

The Ranci Dolç of Mas Martinet is a naturally sweet wine (without added sugar or alcohol) 100% made with Garnatxa Negra. This Garnacha comes from the big terrace that we have here, in front of the winery. We don’t use our vintage every year to produce rancio wine, but we do it in the hottest years, if it is possible. We harvest the grapes with around 15º of alcohol, and we put them on wicker beds, in the shade, in order to let them dry slowly, between 7 and 21 days. All this process is done to get dehydrated grapes, with a high sugar content, and therefore, a natural sweet wine.

Once the grapes are dehydrated, we squash them, and we let them ferment with their natural yeasts for a couple of months. Then, we press them, and we put them in demijohns or in a barrel, where the fermentation process will slowly continue until its completion in the next year (it will remain approximately 80 g/l of sugar). When this process is completed, we refill the first old barrels of the winery, barrels that we have gathered one by one around Priorat. These barrels come from Torroja, El Molar, Gratallops… and most of them have been gathered because their original owners had forgotten them in their houses, and they didn’t use them. There, inside the barrels, these fermented grapes will be blended with an older wine (the first one dates from 1994) and with the centenary mothers, which are responsible for turning the sweet wine into a fine, elegant and creamy rancio wine. Every year, during the old moon of January, we refill the barrels (*ras de carretells) with rancio wines, beginning with the oldest one, like in the solera process.

When bottling, we only bottle a third part of the wine that we have inside the first barrel. As if it was a sherry, we only bottle a part that we indicate later on the label. We always leave a remaining part of the wine inside the barrels in order to completely fill them with a younger wine, which comes from another barrel, and we keep on working with the solera process until we get to the barrel which contains the most recent wine.

The first bottling of this wine was done in 2017, with more than 22 years of ageing, and now we have already done the second one…
It is a wine which specially requires calm, rest and serenity in order to enjoy it with full awareness.

*Ras de carretells: in contrast with traditional soleras, in Priorat, the barrels or carretells are put only in a horizontal position, without blending.

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OXIDATIVE WINES Uncategorised @en VINS OXIDATIUS

RANCI DOLÇ DE MARTINET

RANCI DOLÇ DE MARTINET

I come from the south, from a warm territory, a territory rich in history.

I was ten years old when I tried a ranci wine for the first time. I went with my father to a meeting with Assumpció Peyra from Escaladei. From the physical and emotional height of childhood, the wine cellar looked old, humid, dark and cold, and the lively discussions between Assumpció and my father were like aggressive elements. I was scared and too bored. After a while, which felt like an eternity, Assumpció invited us to visit la Sala dels Àngels (“the Angels Room”). It was an exciting space, even older than the rest of the wine cellar, and which emitted the emanations and scents from other generations: the room of rancio wines. She let me try a barrel of 1964, a sweet ranci wine. I fell in love with it, it took my fear away, it cheered me up, and it made me feel like home, protected.

I thought that, if one day I was going to be in the wine production business, I would make a wine like that one.

In the summer of 1995, already working in Mas Martinet and helping my father, I stayed for some months in the Peralada Castle preparing the new wine laboratory. During the long summer afternoons of July, I went for a walk around the vineyards of Pau, Garriguella and nearby just to not lose contact with a nature that, for me, was necessary and addictive. I went to visit a peasant farmer with whom I talked about life, about the profession and about memory, and the last day of my stay in Empordà, he came to say goodbye to me with a special bottle from his winery.

It was a sweet rancio wine. Once again, I felt protected, caressed by many generations. I felt like home.

I remembered the promise made in Escaladei in November of 1982. Then, that September of 1995, the Martinet Ranci Dolç was born, but I wasn’t aware of it yet.

Almost 20 years have gone by to show us, maybe our less representative wine as a wine company, but which carries the soul and the history of Priorat.

Rancio wines are wines made to receive, to thank, to share. We put them on the table for Festa Major, for harvests celebrations, for the birth of a child, and we can enjoy them because many generations have taken care of that first barrel.

Being successors of a long history which represents us makes us feel more rooted and able to thank and pay tribute to those generations that have made it possible for us to be here today.

Sara Pérez
Mas Martinet

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OXIDATIVE WINES VINS OXIDATIUS

OXIDATIVE WINES

OXIDATIVE WINES

When we think about wine, whether as a consumer, producer, sommelier, portfolio manager, buyer, or simply as a wine enthusiast, many of us think of white wines, red wines, sparkling wines, rosés… and, finally, maybe we would also add a small box or give a little space to “special” wines, which would include sweet wines, rancio wines, fortified wines, etc.

During the last 40 years, there have been several revolutions in the world of wine industry, one after another with a speed which is hard to “tolerate” in an industry where decisions are mostly made taking our children’s profits into account. The arrival of fruit wines, grape juice concentrates, new types of wood, international varieties, vine training in the vineyards, high technology, etc., displaced a more refined, softener, with less fruit concentration and less lush type of wine. In short, it seemed that the great classic wines, even from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rioja, Jerez and Oporto, had been forgotten by a large number of consumers. Immediacy and sort-term impact had prevailed. In recent years, with the return to local varieties, traditional pruning systems, balanced wines and more respectful ageing processes, there has also been a demand for local products, regional combinations and local products consumption. Now, we embrace white wines macerated with the grape skins. These wines have even brought a new colour to wine lists. We are not surprised by aged rosés and disgorged sparkling wines, and what was considered a mistake and/or an imperfection by a lot of people, nowadays we see it rather as a virtue and a unique quality.

Is exactly in time, mistakes and imperfections variables where “oxidative” wines feel comfortable, whether they are made with the skins, aged sweet wines, dry rancio wines, wines exposed to day and night (sol i serena), or a mix of different vintages. White wines, red wines and rosés with endless ageing, complex and animal bouquets, high volatile compounds, etc., but which require patience when cooking, eating, and especially long table talks in order to explain us their whole story in every drop, in every sip. However, above all, they require tolerance, acceptance, and to be open-minded in order to get rid of the idea of imperfections and mistakes, and open ourselves to the rich heritage left by history and local traditions over time.

We need to find in our daily life that moment to think, read, talk with other people, observe, and accompany it with a glass of this rich heritage left by all the vine-growers and wine producers around this region. But, above all, I would like to stand up for all the Mediterranean oxidative wines. I think, not knowing if it is right or wrong, that is exactly in this great area with its special light where these wines can tell us about tradition, about time, about history, and specially about passion. Because… who said oxidation is an imperfection?

Roger Valls
Mas Martinet